Art and Beer at Cabo San Lucas

Cabo San Lucas, December 3, 2010

Art & Beer

Every once in a while you come across a place that is unique in the world.  Art & Beer is one of those unique places.  About 5 years ago Betty and I went to Cabo San Lucas on vacation.  Our Friend Joe vacationed at the same time in Cabo and we did some tourist things together.  We had a rental car and we wanted to go to Todos Santos one day.   Todos Santos is a charming colonial town about 100 clicks (50 miles) north of Cabo.  It’s known as an art and surfing community and is home of the restored Hotel California. 

Earlier that week while on Medono beach at the famous Office beach cantina, we overheard some people at the next table raving about the best margaritas they ever had.  I’m always on the look out for good food and cocktails recommendations, so I inquired and learned that they were referring to Art and Beer on the way to Todos Santos.  So, we knew what to look for on our day trip the next day when Betty, Joe and I planned to go there.

On the drive back from Todos Santos on that day trip 5 years ago Betty needed to find a bathroom about half way back to Cabo.  No, this was not a case of Montezuma’s revenge.  We just needed a break.  “Hey, there is Art & Beer.  We can stop there.”  The sign was the most impressive part of this road side stand.  They have a small room with art on all the walls and another room, or palapa that is the bar.  The floors are all dirt.  They did have a bathroom and a sign on the way in saying use of the bathroom costs $3.00 or a minimum bar tab of $10.  What a great excuse to buy a margarita. 

The bathroom was an enclosure made of desert wood scraps with a toilet inside over the dirt floor.  Ther was a drum of water next to the toilet and a pail to use to flush it.  The art work was pretty funky and the palapa bar had a great view of the desert and the ocean in the background.  I ordered a margarita that cost $10.  This is a lot for a margarita in my book, but it comes with the use of the “bathroom”.  The Mexican bar maids go to work gathering the fruit from around the bar and squeezing some of everything into the giant glass mug.  I had never seen anything like it.  I could barely carry it back to the bar stool next to the window.  It was really unique and refreshing and was adorned with slices of oranges and a little umbrella.  Our stool at the open “window” had a great view of the ocean and provided a sense of total relaxation, typical of a Mexican palapa bar.  So we enjoyed our drinks overlooking the desert and ocean and decided that Art & Beer is a must stop on our next trip to Todos Santos. 

The next trip to Todos Santos happened to be a year or two later when our friend Joe joined us again at the Sunset Beach resort.  This time at Art & Beer the place had expanded with a covered deck.  This is very Mexican construction made with whatever materials they can find in the desert.  But it was shaded and charming, the perfect environment for a palapa style cantina.  The art was the same as our last visit, just with more dust on it.  I don’t think they had sold any.  And there was a drink and food menu on the patio deck.  We were having our Pina Coladas in full relaxation mode remembering our last discovery visit. There was another couple at the next table that we engaged in conversation.  The guy seemed like he was from New Jersey, like he may have worked for Tony Soprano.  He said he lived in Todos Santos.  I started asking questions which made him very uncomfortable.  Joe and I figured he was hiding from a hit squad or in a witness protection program. 

Now on this trip in December 2010, Betty and I stopped at Art & Beer on our way to Todos Santos about 11AM.  We were the only ones there.  I learned from the lady at the bar that she and her husband are the owners.  They have been there for 13 years and the art work on display is their own.  She speaks good English and said she and her husband are from Northern Baja, Mexicali and Tijuana.  I ordered a beer and Betty ordered a Pina Colada.  And we ordered the seafood campechana tostadas with shrimp, pulpo (octopus) and fish.  It was about $20 on the menu and the Pina Colada was about $14. 

Betty’s Pina Colada comes out in a whole pineapple with fruit and an umbrella attached.  It was very festive.  And we learned over our 2 hour stay that the drink included the entire blender full that she made.  So she refilled the pineapple 5 times.  Enjoying our relaxation and view, the owner came out with an appetizer, apparently part of the cheviche tostada order.  4 large fresh raw clams on a plate, open face with a sauce that tasted like clam juice and worscheshire sauce.  I didn’t even ask Betty if she wanted to eat raw clams, especially in Mexico.  So I slurped and chewed all four.  The presentation was really beautiful.  The plate was sprinkled with bits of herbs and pomegranate seeds, art work in its own right.

Betty’s Pina Colada was filled again and the cheviche tostadas came out on a lovely plate with 3 small tostadas piled high with fresh marinated shrimp, octopus and fish.  Again, the presentation was unbelievable.  Cucumber and tomato slices topped with whole shrimp were added as well.  And a tray of fresh salsas were brought on the side.  And again with the refill on the Pina Colada.  We took some pictures and enjoyed the Chris Boti playing though old stereo speakers.  We moved to the end of the deck to sit in the shade.  This is when she brought out dessert.  A plate of fresh slices of fruits and berries wading in Kahlua and vanilla liqueur. 

We were ready to leave but we were having such a nice time, we went up the spiral stairs to the roof of the art room to check out the view.  We were treated to the display of whales frolicking just off the beach as if they were there just for our pleasure.  Betty and I were the only ones there for our 2 hour stay.  However, we met the other owner as we were leaving.  He’s and old dude with a long grey beard.  And I almost forgot, speaking of leaving, as I paid the owner, she poured two bottles of beere for Betty and I – one for the road- I guess.  This is a must stop on your next trip to Cabo San Lucas.